Family Owned, Locally Grown
Tips for Growing Asparagus
Plant early spring / full sun / good drainage
- It is recommended to add compost to help loosen soil and add starter fertilizer. They are heavy feeders.
- Well taken care of plants can produce for up to 20 years.
- Dig a trench about 6-12" deep and 4-6" wide.
- Take the crown and spread the roots out to the sides and place in the trench. The crown will be raised slightly with the roots fanned out.
- Plant the crowns about 12-18" apart. (they can slightly overlap)
- Cover the crowns with soil. As the plant grows you want to slowly keep adding soil on top of crowns until the soil reaches ground level.
- Asparagus likes a lot of moisture but in well drained soil. Give the plants a deep soak once a week in the cooler spring and twice a week in the summer.
-The crowns we have in stock this year are one year old which means you will get your first harvest in 2023.
Tips For Growing Celery
Plant in full sun / Plant 8" apart / Likes a lot of moisture
- Needs compost-enriched loose soil
- Plant them soil level with how they came in nursery container.
- Plant celery when nighttime kare above 40 degrees
- Likes A LOT of moisture. You can add mulch to help retain moisture.
- To prevent bitterness it is recommended you add soil around the base of the plant as it grows (about 3" high) in the form of a hill.
- Be sure to keep weeds out because they will disrupt celery's shallow roots.
- You can tie the stocks together at the top to keep them from splitting if they get too large.
- You can start harvesting once the stalk reaches 8" tall. Cut the stock off just below soil level.
The darker the stalk becomes the more nutrients it will have.
Tips for Growing Grapes in your backyard
All the varieties we carry are concord grapes which means they are hardy and native to North America. They are usually best in zones 4-9 but can vary based on variety.
Plant in full sun (at least 6 hours). The more sunlight the more quantity and sweeter grapes you will have.
They prefer well drained soil with a pH of 5.5 to 7.0.
Grape plants need to be grown on a support. It is recommended to use a trellis, arbor or a stake. Plants should be planted 6-10 feet apart.
Most grape plants are self-pollinating but it’s always smart to check before purchasing.
When planting prune the plant back to contain only 4-6 buds. Then every year after that it is important to prune your plant. Grapes only produce fruit on one year old stems. If you don’t prune it will have fewer grapes because it will be a lot of old wood. If you cut back too much of the one year old stems you will have lots of new growth but no berries. Pruning is done in late winter while the plant is dormant. Usually in late February or early March in the LC valley.
It is recommended to take off the buds for the first couples years to promote growth and a good root system. Grape plants usually begin to produce fruit in 2-7 years. Depends on your variety.
As your plant grows the first couple years you will need to train your plant to attach to its support. Sometimes you may need to tie the canes to their support with string.
After that it is recommended to prune back all the canes that produced fruit the previous year. They will not produce again and need to be removed to prevent disease and excess shade.
Pick grapes once they are ripe. They will not continue to ripen once picked. Keeping the ripe fruit off of the plant will help prevent disease, insects or other critters.
You may need to use a bird net to protect your fruit when they are close to ripeness from unwanted animals.
If your grapes are not ripening try pinching back some of the extra leaves around. This will help sunlight reach the fruit and help ripen it.
Tips for Growing Raspberries
Plant in an area with Full Sun (at least 6 hours of direct sunlight) and in well drained soil.
Recommended to mix compost / organic matter into the soil before planting.
Space the plants 3 feet apart in rows that are 6 feet apart. For best crops keep your rows only about 1-2 feet wide and remove any other suckers that might be coming up around your rows.
Most plants will need some sort of support. Recommended to have two posts on each end of your rows and attach wire from post to post to give you something to tie the branches to if needed.
Once planted water deeply and mulch 2”-3” deep around the base of the plants. It is recommended to do this yearly to prevent weeds and retain moisture.
Keep plants well watered through the growing season. They want 1”-2” of water each week.
All raspberries are self pollinating. You can plant everbearing and June bearing together to have a good supply of berries every year.
The types we have this year are listed below.
An everbearing thornless raspberry. It is one of the earliest raspberries and produces very large yields.
The berries are firm, large and delicious.
Fertilize in early spring before any new growth. Recommended to use a granular slow release. Most new growth will come from beneath the soil.
Do not prune the first year except for dead or damaged branches.
Each spring pick 5 or 6 of the most vigorous healthy canes (stems) coming from the ground and cut them back about 30” above soil. All other new canes should be removed. Do not remove last year's new canes because they will bear fruit early summer of this year. This year's new canes will bear fruit in the fall of this year and early summer of next year. Remove any dead or damaged canes or any that are more than 2 years old because they will not bear fruit again.
Expect to harvest twice a week. It is recommended to always remove ripe fruit to prevent them from rotting and attracting pests or causing disease to your plant.
Semi thornless June bearing raspberry. Known for its heavy crops of large, flavorful, delicious berries. Will produce one large crop each year. This is best for canning.
One plant yields 2+ pounds of fruit every season.
They develop fruit on last year's new canes. Cut all canes that produced fruit last year all the way to the ground. They will not produce again. Prune all canes that are dead or damaged.
Tips for Growing Blueberries in our Area
Require Full Sun (at least 6 hours of direct sunlight). Protected from high winds is best.
They need acidic soil with a ph of 4.5 - 5.6
The local extension office can test soil for ph levels with a soil sample. The LC valley is known for having alkaline soil but I highly recommend getting your soil tested before assuming the ph of your soil. (Areas where old pine trees were taken out could be very acidic so you never want to assume).
Once you have tested your soil you may be searching for ways to make your soil more acidic. Here are some suggestions.
Fertilize with acidic fertilizer.
Add sphagnum peat moss around the base of your plants once a year.
Adding coffee grounds and pine needles.
* Please note: Soil ph will return to its normal level if left untreated for a few years so it is important that you treat the soil regularly.
To have most success plant 2-3 different varieties.
Technically blueberries are self-pollinating but you will have larger crops with more than one bush.
There are Early, Mid, and Late blooming blueberries. It is recommended you have at least two plants that are the same blooming season. This will promote larger crops.
If you want blueberries all summer long it is recommended to get at least 2 early, 2 mid and 2 late blooming bushes.
* Note: The blueberry bushes must be from the same blooming season. To help pollinate each other they must bloom at the same time. If you have one early blooming and one late blooming plant they will not bloom at the same time so that means they will not pollinate each other.
Pruning is a MUST
Pruning must be done in the winter months when the plant is dormant.
I recommend doing it in January or February. If you do it too early it might still be growing but if we have an early spring March might be too late.
Benefits of pruning:
Removes dead or damaged branches
Opens the plant up so it can receive more sunlight in the center.
Promotes new growth.
Increases fruit quality because it allows the plant to focus more on growing fruit than wasting its energy on old leaves and wood.
Never shear back the plant. The blooms are on the outer 2-3” of stems and if you shear it all the way back it wont produce any fruit.
They produce on one year old wood so be sure to look for buds and not take those off while pruning.
If an entire branch is dead then shear that branch off at the ground level.
*It is recommended to look up pruning methods for your exact type of plant. So be sure to label them and keep the tags. Some varieties require different pruning methods.
Other Tips to Consider
Blueberries won’t have much fruit in the first 2-3 years.
Harvest is bigger after 5 years and the plant reaches mature size in about 8-10 years.
Remember that it is common to have pest issues and they must be treated quickly before much damage occurs to the plant. Keep an eye on your plants even when they aren’t in their blooming season to be sure they are free of pests.
If you live in an area with deer be sure they are not disturbing your plant even in the winter months. You may need to protect your plants because if they eat your buds off then you will not have a crop that year.
Blueberries need multiple days of weather below 45 degrees to produce good crops. If we have an extremely mild winter your crop might not be as good.
Remember that you need pollinators to have a successful crop. Bees are very important and we encourage you to plant other flowers nearby that might attract bees during your bloom season.
Tips for caring for our Hanging Basket
Most Important: Watering
We plant our baskets in 12” (small) and 16” (big) containers. Our smaller baskets will dry out quicker than a larger basket because there is less soil.
If it's below 80 degrees I recommend watering once a day with about a gallon of water for the small and 2 gallons of water for the big basket.
If it’s above 80 degrees you must water twice a day.
If it’s warmer than 100 degrees it's almost impossible to water it too much. I recommend adding a gallon or two more than what I previously said at each watering.
If it’s a windy day, it will need more water. If it rains, that does not necessarily mean it doesn’t need water. If it rains all day long then it probably won’t need watering if the temperatures are below 70 degrees but if it just rains an hour in the morning and gets sunny in the afternoon then it will still require to be watered.
*Note: The way we tell if a basket needs watered is based on weight. Make sure to feel the weight of your basket when it’s fully watered. Then feel how heavy it is right before you water it. There should be a significant difference in weight. Remember that as your basket grows it’s dry weight will be more than when you first buy it. You will need to adjust your reference of weight as it grows through the season.
All of our hanging baskets are designed for full sun. We do not have a shade greenhouse so all of our baskets require sunlight.
Full sun is considered at least 6 hours of direct sunlight. Remember that it must be direct.
Most ideal condition for baskets is morning sun with afternoon shade in the LC Valley. Some baskets do better in the hot afternoon sun so if you have that condition please ask us which might do best. Baskets in the afternoon sun will require more water than baskets with morning sun.
Plants that are in our hanging baskets LOVE fertilizer. At our greenhouses we have fertilizer injected into our water system. That means that they get a small dose of fertilizer every time we water and they love that.
We mostly recommend slow release fertilizers because they are easy and usually last up to 3 months. The top two brands that we like are Miracle-Gro Bloom Booster or Osmocote.
The fertilizers that you mix in water work just fine too. If you prefer this method we recommend diluting the mixture in a gallon of water and watering with it more often than what the package says. (basically doing what we do at our greenhouses).
Once you purchase a basket from us they usually prefer a bloom boost formula which is usually around 15-30-15. These numbers will be on the back of every fertilizer. The middle number encourages blooming so it is recommended for mid season baskets.
If it is early in the season or you created a basket yourself and want it to grow we recommend using a formula closer to 20-10-15. This is best for growing and not necessarily promoting blooms.
* Note: It is possible to over fertilize plants so you must be careful to not do that BUT you can fertilize more often then what the package recommends. I usually put in a good amount of the slow release fertilizer in my basket and reapply every 2 months even though it recommends every 3 months. Every 3-4 weeks I go in with an all purpose fertilizer water soluble fertilizer just to give it a little extra boost.
Caring and Pruning
Most of our hanging baskets require deadheading. The only plant that doesn't require it is trailing vines that don’t bloom or a Calibrachoa. We usually have small baskets that are all Calibrachoa for people who don’t like deadheading.
I recommend deadheading a little every day or two instead of letting it get out of hand and then you spend an hour or more at a time to recover it.
most flowers (especially petunias) require you to get the collar off as well. This means you can’t just pluck the flower out but you must pinch the plant back behind the collar on the stem. Getting the collar off is the only thing that encourages more blooming. If you leave the collar it won’t bloom in that spot again.
If you let the dead heading get out of control or your basket is getting leggy it might be time for a trim.
It’s amazing how much you can cut a basket back and how beautiful it will come back. I recommend doing this at least once throughout the season. I usually do it once or twice a season and I always try to time one of them to be early September. This is usually when the weather begins to cool back and down and your basket will come back just beautiful for the fall season.
When cutting back your basket I recommend taking off some of the longest length and trying to shape your basket. Most of the other length can be trimmed back anywhere from 4”-6”. This will encourage new growth and new blooms.
Just to give you an idea of how much you can trim a basket I will let you know that you could cut everything back to the edge of the pot and your basket would come back with more growth and blooms. I don’t recommend doing that unless you have significant damage.
*When you cut your basket back I recommend using an all purpose fertilizer over a bloom boost because it will encourage new growth. You can follow up with a bloom boost about a week later.
It is rare that you go a season without fighting some sort of pest on your basket. The most common are aphids and budworms.
Aphids: These little bugs come and go throughout the season and when they hit they can take over pretty quickly. Be sure to keep a close eye on your plants and look at the stems closely to look for little bugs crawling around. They tend to be under the leaves. Aphids can be light green, black, brown, white, grey and pink.
You can sometimes catch them early before any damage occurs. I always keep my eyes out for them while deadheading. Some common signs of aphids if not treated right away are misshapen leaves or blooms,curling or yellowing leaves.
For a more natural way to kill the bugs you can use neem oil, insecticidal soaps or soapy water to try to kill the bugs.
Budworms are small caterpillars that are common in our area. They come from moths that lay them in your plants. You will rarely see them but they cause noticeable damage to your plants. The first sign of them is they will leave holes on your leaves and plants. Once you see the first sight of them it is important to take action quickly. They can take over very quickly and kill your entire basket.
There are alot of other pests that could infect your basket through the season. Be sure to keep an eye out for them deadheading. It's important to identify and treat them right as soon as possible to promote a healthy basket.
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